| Pedal | Current draw |
|---|---|
| Ace Octave Fuzz | 5 mA |
| Box of War Reissue OG Box of War (Small Foot) | 6 mA |
| Caprid (Small Foot) | 6 mA |
| Elephant Skin | 7 mA |
| Eye See ’78 | 7 mA |
| Forest for the Trees | 5 mA |
| Garbage Face | 7 mA |
| Garbage Face Jr | 6 mA |
| HangMan 2D | 10 mA |
| Phat Phuk, Phat Phuk B | <5 mA |
| Super Russian | 7 mA |
| Tall Font Russian | 6 mA |
| The Caprid OG The Caprid OG Blue-Violet, Black-Violet | 6 mA |
| The Good One | 5 mA |
| The White Elk (Small Foot) | 6 mA |
| Tri-Pie ’70 | 6 mA |
| Two-Five – 25v Overdrive | 35 mA |
| Your Face ’60s | 6 mA center positive (positive ground – requires separate/isolated power source) |
| Your Face ’70s | 6 mA |
What’s with all the 5-7 mA numbers, you may ask? Well, most of the Wren & Cuff line is made up of variations on the Big Muff circuit (from different ”eras” of that pedal’s existence), so they are bound to be fairly close. Does it matter whether the pedal draws 5, 6 or 7mA? Not really – one could just as easily have said ”less than 10 mA” for all the Big Muff-derived pedals, and have been done with it. Or ”less than 50 mA” for all the Wren & Cuff pedals, since you really should be giving them their own 100mA outputs anyway. But what would be the fun in that? 😉