PedalCurrent draw
Vintage series
AD-900 Analog Delay28 mA (12vDC center positive)
AD-999 Analog Delay42 mA
AD-999 Pro Analog Delay72 mA*
CS-550 Stereo Chorus21 mA
DS-830 Distortion Master8 mA
OD-820 Overdrive Pro19 mA*
PH-350 Rotary Phaser41 mA

Reissue series
AD80 Analog Delay22 mA (32 mA @ 10vDC)
CP101 Compressor11 mA
CS505 Stereo Chorus23 mA
D&S Distortion & Sustainer6 mA
D&S II Distortion & Sustainer II7 mA
FL301 Flanger20 mA
GE601 Graphic Equalizer11 mA
PT999 Phase Tone12 mA
OD808 Overdrive5 mA

”9” series
AD-9 Analog Delay19 mA
AD-9pro Analog Delay39 mA*
AF-9 Auto Filter17 mA
CS-9pro Stereo Chorus26 mA*
CP-9pro Compressor/Limiter25 mA*
FAOD-9 Fortin Modded Overdrive
FL-9 Flanger25 mA
OD-9 Overdrive7 mA
OD-9 Pro+ Overdrive Pro Plus35 mA max*
OOD-9 Organic Overdrive18 mA*
OSD-9 Overdrive/Soft Distortion14 mA*
PAC-9 Pure Analog Chorus21 mA*
PT-9 Pro+ Phase Shifter32 mA*
SD-9 Sonic Distortion6 mA
SM-9 Pro+ Super Metal12 mA (42mA in 18v mode)*
SSD-9 Super Sonic Distortion9-18vDC operation
ST-9 Pro+ Super Tube12 mA (36mA in 18v mode)*
TBO-9 True Tube Booster/Overdrive270 mA (stated)
TOD-9 True Tube Overdrive260 mA (stated)
VJR-9 Vintage Jet Riser60mA*
VOP-9 Vintage Overdrive Pro23 mA (30mA in 18v mode)*

Compact series
AD10 Analog Delay30 mA
ASC10 Ambient Stereo Chorus20 mA
BD10 Hybrid Bass Driver?
DB10 Dual Booster11 mA
OD808X Overdrive Extreme8 mA

Real Tube II series
RTC600 Real Tube Compressor/Limiter9vDC, 240 mA**
RTO700 Real Tube Overdrive9vDC, 400 mA**
RTD800 Real Tube Overdrive/Distortion9vDC, 440 mA**

Fuzz Elements series
(no figures for these yet)

Apex808 overdrive? (but probably <10 mA)
DCP series PPE159 mA
DCP series POD151 mA

*A note about the Maxon pedals with internal 9/18 volt operation (the Pro and Pro+ models, VOP-9 etc) and those that have a charge pump to stabilize the voltage at 9 volts (OSD-9 etc): These pedals draw lots of current for the first few milliseconds, and then settle down to the listed current draw. This means they may not start up with a 100mA power supply/output. You may get lucky starting them up from higher current outputs (250mA or more). If you don’t have any higher current outputs available, one way to get around this is to keep a battery in the pedal, and on power-up temporarily remove the adapter plug (to let the pedal start up from the battery). Then plug it back in, which should keep it going from a 100mA supply.

**Another note, now on the ”Real Tube II” series. The current draw listed is with the pedal up and running. At powerup, these pedals have a much higher inrush current (upwards of 2000mA). They will work from a high current output (rated clearly above the stated current draw), but the more you can give them, the better.

* ** Never feed these pedals any more than 9 volts DC – going higher could damage them.

Mattoverse Electronics